Ross PollardLondon calling, yes, I was there, too
And you know what they said? Well, some of it was true!
Song lyrics about a city, this humble editor in a buoyant mood, it can only be London Fashion Week AW18. While I rest my weary feet and think about how it’s possible that we see as many great menswear looks go down the runway as we do at London Fashion Week Men’s (see previous article), let’s have a look at the themes coming our way.
Ilaria Lepore
We’re kicking off with an apocalyptic vision with an almost theatrical nod to rock opera. Dark, brooding and with touches of showmanship, these are looks that, while being full of pow and pop, are also really wearable. There is a smartness in the peacock feathers, in that while they add show, they are still verging on practical.
Let’s be honest, as it’s going to be colder than a penguin’s bum this week, who wouldn’t want a good suit, or that beautiful long coat to swaddle in (might leave the trousers and biker jacket until April though)?
Vin & Omi
Those that follow me on ‘the socials’ know I’m an unashamed fanboy of Vin & Omi. Their personal brand of ethical extravagance resonates loudly with me about what fashion can be. Using responsibly-sourced and recycled materials for their collections, they’ve taken the old, outdated idea that ethical is dull and buried it for good.
The long coat with a custom paint addition adds a zestful fun to the darker note of the fabric and the trousers play into the youthful notes elsewhere in the collection. I have to say, when the ram-print leggings came down the runway, I gasped. I love a good print and this one is exceptional. There is a genius in it as well, as the model’s legs moved, it caused the shape of his muscles to move creating a sense that the ‘faces’ are ‘alive’ – quite brilliant. What better footwear to set it all off than Po-Zu, who have been in Candid frequently.
Oh, and the orange coat? To quote George Takei: “oooohhhh mmmmyyyyyy”.
London Fashion Week AW18 Candid Magazine
Photograph by Nicholas Kristiansen
London Fashion Week AW18 Candid Magazine
Photograph by Nicholas Kristiansen
Kristel Kuslapuu
Fashion Scout award-winner, Kristel Kuslapuu presented a collection at Freemasons’ Hall – a collection full of youthful joy and playfulness. I love a knit and wasn’t disappointed here. I’m calling it now, Kristal Kuslapuu is a name you’ll need to watch out for.
The statement black knit was bold, textured and while I personally wouldn’t wear it bare chested, can see it would work brilliantly with either a bold colour, a strong print or an image underneath it. The wrapped cardigan, bordering almost on kimono territory, was also perfect for adding that more youthful edge to knitwear. I’m excited by this designer.
Malan Breton
Malan is Malan – fabulous, beautiful, stunning and full of wow. The Taiwanese designer based in New York just smashes it every season. Now, I just read The Great Gatsby and was somewhat critical of its eponymous hero, however if I got to dress like this, I’d go to his parties.
This is everything I want to see in more formally-tailored looks. So, I look at all those men on awards’ red carpets and lay down this challenge: with looks this amazing available to you, why can’t you raise your game? Malan and his team are waiting, needles and shears at the ready.
Jamie Wei Huang
Regular readers know I always do a one-line review in a round up somewhere. Well, here it is.
London should thank its lucky stars that a designer as talented and as brilliant as Jamie Wei Huang shows here. If you don’t know the label, get learnt, now.
i-am-chen
No, this editor hasn’t lost his mind due to a mixture of lots of shows, no sleep, no food and about three supertankers worth of Pret’s filter coffee, which is stronger than The Ultimate Warrior when he got the rage in him. Yes, this is a womenswear collection, but bear with me.
Androgyny and unisex is the next big thing, not just in a 70s, revival-inspired-by-Bowie (all hail the king) way, but in a fashion-and-clothing-is-changing-as-is-our-society way. Also, i-am-chen, another winner at Fashion Scout, is going to be HUGE, so why not combine the two.
I can tell you right now, I’d wear both those cardigans and that turtleneck. They are simply stunning and will bring a bit of zing and fizz to any season. Fashion’s future is coming, and i-am-chen is the best way to make that wardrobe fashion forward right now.
Read Ross Pollard’s New York Fashion Week reviews here.